You can edit the text in this area, and change where the contact form on the right submits to, by entering edit mode using the modes on the bottom right. I recently got an Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. To print with ABS, you really need an enclosure.
This traps the heat in, reducing the chance of warping. For a while I used a photo tent, which was cheap and worked pretty well. Something more robust was needed. I modeled my design on a Prusa enclosure. It has a series of 3D printed parts that take around 40 hours to print. Besides the 3D printed parts, this requires a few more pieces:. The plexiglass is mounted between the legs of one table, which is then placed on top of the other table.
I later used a third to raise the printer up higher and provide storage underneath. Plexiglass sheets. You can probably get them cheaper if you cut them yourself, but this was very convenient. I just used some sheetrock screws I had lying around.
For the most part, the design worked quite well. I ran into a few issues, though. Plexiglas Size: The plexiglass sheets were slightly too tall or the legs too shortwhich made it impossible to properly seat the corners. I worked around this by printing a series of 1mm and 2mm shims that I could insert to between the bottom feet and the legs to get the height right.
Spacers STL. I fixed this by printing new feet with 20mm risers. Tall Feet STL. Printer Depth: The printer barely fits in the enclosure front-to-back, with the bed coming very close to hitting the front and back as it moves. Once I had the final position figured out, I put two screws down in front of the printer to act as stops so that I could align it again easily in the future. Spool Holder Width: The printed spool holder was designed for wider spools. Modified STL.
I also wanted to know how hot the enclosure actually gets. I bought a refrigerator thermometer with a temperature probe from Amazon.Is there anything what I should be aware of, or do you remember any steps which can be skipped in assembling i3S because will have to be performed as process of MMU2 mounting?
I would strongly suggest first assembling the MK3S alone, without the MMU2S, and get it working and get familiar and comfortable with it. Then, when you are confident in your new machine, continue by adding the MMU2S and climb its learning curve, which can be tricky. I second that suggestion. Another strong suggestion, which many seem to omit, for both the printer itself and particularly for the MMU Take time with some hand tools file, drill bits, etc. Chase out all holes, and make sure what is supposed to fit inside of them does indeed fit properly.
RTFM completely, multiple times, before starting assembly.
MMU2S and i3S - brand new build from the scratch
Read all of the comments posted in the online version of TFM. Hi, my 2 cents for the assembly of the printer : watch these videos. I t is very well done and rather informative. Do you think that there is something what really would be good to replace on the start? Some would say that you need to change some parts. I found that MMU2S works for me "as is". One thing to note - check that the PTFE tube in the extruder is 1.
Otherwise your tips will be big and won't go through the other tubes in the system. Forum Icons: Forum contains no unread posts Forum contains unread posts Mark all read. Please Login or Register. English forum. Hardware, firmware and software help. MMU2S and i3S - brand new build from the scratch. Last Post. New Member. Hello and greetings, beloved in Prusa printers! Log in to be able to post. Prominent Member.Hi there! I'm Mathieu. This was supposed to be posted earlier but I pressed the Enter button too early by accident and uploaded an incomplete thread that didn't have all I had to say.
Last time someone notified me that I sounded a little snarky about people's attempted solutions to the MMU2 and that was not my intention, so I'll try to reword a little bit this time. So, this might be a little redundant at first but I have some good news!
I was in a bad mood that day but I rated it high because the actual structural integrity and concept of the upgrade was great but the actual use and learning curve was difficult to master.
However, I can gladly say that, for the first time in over 6 months of owning the MMU2, I have finally gotten my first print with no jams, layer skips, or user intervention! In fact, not just one print, but four! With a combined layer change count of nearly I will show some physical and in-slicer tips that will get you on your way to MMU enlightenment. Many people have set off to find the elusive flawless MMU settings that have escaped our grasps since the beginning of time. Sadly, the results I am posting are not guaranteed for all, as I understand that not everyone lives in the exact temperature and humidity as I do.
That would be nice, though! Without the hardworking community working together to share the best ways to cope with the finnicky MMU2 I would not be writing these posts. So, here's a list of three links to important modifications that miraculously stopped my prints from failing.
I'm sure there are more that can do the job just as well but these are the only ones I used. It uses a pass-through coupling to feed filament through the PTFE tube right up to the Bondtech gears. The last of these models uses a redesigned extruder body to allow for a pass-through coupling that bypasses any resistance a filament tip would encounter by the stock default extruder body.
This was the deciding factor that really helped me the most. You might have to buy a new PTFE tube for this purpose but the ones on the Prusa e-shop work just fine!
If you are buying from somewhere else, the creator says to use a 3mm ID 4mm OD tube but I think having an inner diameter of 2mm works just as well or better, having better accuracy when the filament is exiting the tube on the other side. The creator kindly left a link to a set of pass-through couplings on Amazon USA that I bought and have used. You only need 1 and the regular Festo stays on the MMU end. The mod is complete with a window to view the Bondtech gears do their magic or not do what they're supposed to do, but hopefully not.
There are two other physical problems that I had to solve and one was easily solved by the pass-through coupling modification.The Prometheus System allows your 3D printer to produce complex multi-color and multi-material objects with the simplicity of a single hot end.
OK, I know believe this is also related to the original firmware that is shipped with Einsy. Laser Filament Monitor housing with Switch for Duet. Download files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC.
More info. I must also say, I love the tone. You can find part 1 here and part 3 here. Thingiverse is a universe of things. The black one is Prusa's. I run all with usb cable…. We built a 7 foot tall Eiffel Tower. PrusaSlicer is a feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for your Original Prusa 3D printer.
The MMU2S unit should be placed in the middle on the top part of the aluminium frame next to the Prusa logo. Note that with this setup you need 2 3" clamps and 1 4" clamp. He not only looks good, he also saves floor space. During printing, if the unit detects that there is no filament, it will send a signal to the main board.
It is largely based on pyphotonfile, maintained by the same developer. Wel zo makkelijk. Starting Point. See full list on shop. Prusa X-axis motor cable strain relief.Display all pictures. With an easier calibration process, a new filament sensor, and a standalone filament buffer, the MMU2S is more reliable than ever before.
This product is supplied as a kit - you must assemble it by yourself! The lead time is weeks. Check out the shipping table. Availability date:. Tweet Share Pinterest. The minimum purchase order quantity for the product is 1.
Add to cart. Add to wishlist. With the MMU2S we managed to sense not only that the filament is present, but that it actually reached the Bondtech gears.
The filament sensor detects when the idler doors open a bit as the filament pushes Bondtechs apart. MMU2S is much more reliable regarding reloading filaments and the calibration process is also simplified. The buffer allows you to position the five filament spools more freely and also saves valuable space on your desk.
The testing process of the MMU2S took 2 months to finish, we used 20 printers and we printed test blocks designed to test frequent switching of all five filaments.
The total value of filament changes was nearly The motorized selector head has a F. A filament sensor and a built-in blade, which prevents filament jamming. MMU2S has a brand new body with a rotating pulley barrel and a single extruder motor. Load up to 5 filaments and the selector head with a filament-cutting blade will take care of automatic loading and unloading.
The second generation of our Multi Material Upgrade supports up to 5 filaments loaded at the same time. We have replaced the previous generation's Bowden system with a new direct-drive mechanism. This change is a major step forward in making the filament loading process more reliable and less prone to jamming. Meet F.
It's essentialy a repurposed P. A probe, which now serves as a filament sensor. It works on a mechanical basis - the string of filament lifts a small stainless steel ball and F. A detects its proximity.Kidfontein (8) odds Analysis BETTY'S THRILLS drawn ideally, major contender.
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Successful MMU2S Modifications (re-upload)
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Mmu2s On Ender 3
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